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Ke lihlopha life tsa li-cosmetic thickeners

Li-thickeners ke sebopeho sa skeleton le motheo oa mantlha oa litlolo tse fapaneng tsa litlolo, 'me li bohlokoa bakeng sa ponahalo, thepa ea rheological, botsitso le maikutlo a letlalo a lihlahisoa.Khetha mefuta e mengata e sebelisoang le e emelang mefuta e fapaneng ea li-thickeners, e li lokisetse ho ba litharollo tse nang le metsi tse nang le likhakanyo tse fapaneng, leka litšobotsi tsa tsona tsa 'mele le tsa lik'hemik'hale tse kang viscosity le pH,' me u sebelise tlhahlobo e hlalosang ho hlahloba ponahalo ea tsona, pepeneneng le maikutlo a mangata a letlalo nakong le ka morao. tshebediso.Liteko tsa kutlo li ile tsa etsoa ho matšoao, 'me lingoliloeng li ile tsa phenyekolloa ho akaretsa le ho akaretsa mefuta e fapaneng ea li-thickeners, tse ka fanang ka tšupiso e itseng bakeng sa moralo oa foromo ea litlolo.

1. Tlhaloso ea thickener

Ho na le lintho tse ngata tse ka sebelisoang e le li-thickeners.Ho latela pono ea boima ba limolek'hule, ho na le li-thickeners tse tlase tsa molek'hule le li-thickeners tse phahameng tsa molek'hule;ho ea ka pono ea lihlopha tse sebetsang, ho na le electrolyte, alcohols, amides, carboxylic acid le esters, joalo-joalo Ema.Li-thickeners li arotsoe ho latela mokhoa oa ho arola lisebelisoa tse tala tsa litlolo.

1. Setenya se tlase sa boima ba limolek'hule

1.1.1 Matsoai a Inorganic

Sistimi e sebelisang letsoai le inorganic joalo ka motenya hangata ke sesebelisoa sa tharollo ea metsi a surfactant.Ntho e atisang ho sebelisoa ka mokhoa o tloaelehileng oa letsoai ke sodium chloride, e nang le phello e hlakileng ea ho teteana.Li-surfactants li etsa li-micelles ka tharollo ea metsi, 'me boteng ba li-electrolyte bo eketsa palo ea mekhatlo ea li-micelles, e lebisang phetohong ea li-micelles tse chitja hore e be li-micelles tse bōpehileng joaloka molamu, ho eketsa ho hanyetsa ho sisinyeha,' me kahoo ho eketsa viscosity ea tsamaiso.Leha ho le joalo, ha electrolyte e feteletseng, e tla ama sebopeho sa micellar, e fokotsa ho hanyetsa ho sisinyeha, le ho fokotsa viscosity ea tsamaiso, e leng seo ho thoeng ke "salting out".Ka hona, palo ea electrolyte e kenyelletsoeng ka kakaretso ke 1% -2% ka boima, 'me e sebetsa hammoho le mefuta e meng ea li-thickeners ho etsa hore tsamaiso e tsitsitse haholoanyane.

1.1.2 Litahi tse mafura, li-acid tse mafura

Litahi tse mafura le li-acid tse mafura ke lintho tsa polar organic.Lingoliloeng tse ling li li nka e le li-nonionic surfactants hobane li na le lihlopha tsa lipophilic le lihlopha tsa hydrophilic.Ho ba teng ha palo e nyane ea lintho tse joalo tsa manyolo ho na le tšusumetso e kholo holim'a tsitsipano ea holim'a metsi, omc le lisebelisoa tse ling tsa surfactant, 'me boholo ba phello bo eketseha ka bolelele ba ketane ea carbon, ka kakaretso kamanong ea mola.Molao-motheo oa eona ke hore lino tse tahang tse mafura le li-acid tse mafura li ka kenya (ho kopanya) li-micelles tsa surfactant ho khothalletsa ho thehoa ha li-micelles.Phello ea bonding ea hydrogen pakeng tsa lihlooho tsa polar) e etsa hore limolek'hule tse peli li hlophisoe haufi-ufi holim'a metsi, tse fetolang haholo thepa ea surfactant micelles le ho finyella phello ea ho teteaneng.

2. Sehlopha sa li-thickeners

2.1 Li-surfactants tse seng tsa ionic

2.1.1 Matsoai a Inorganic

sodium chloride, potassium chloride, ammonium chloride, monoethanolamine chloride, diethanolamine chloride, sodium sulfate, trisodium phosphate, disodium hydrogen phosphate le sodium tripolyphosphate, joalo-joalo;

2.1.2 Tahi e mafura le li-acid tse mafura

Lauryl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, C12-15 Alcohol, C12-16 Alcohol, Decyl Alcohol, Hexyl Alcohol, Octyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Lauric Acid, Acidno6 Acid, C18- Li-Lauric Acid, C18-3 Litlhare , stearic acid, behenic acid, joalo-joalo;

2.1.3 Alkanolamides

Coco Diethanolamide, Coco Monoethanolamide, Coco Monoisopropanolamide, Cocamide, Lauroyl-Linoleoyl Diethanolamide, Lauroyl-Myristoyl Diethanolamide, Isostearyl Diethanolamide, Linoleic Diethanolamide, Cardamom Diethanolamide, Cardamom Diethanolamide, Palma Diethanolamide, Palma Diethanolamide, Palma Diethanolamide thanolamide, Sesame Diethanolamide, Soybean Diethanolamide, Stearyl Diethanolamide, Stearin Monoethanolamide, stearyl monoethanolamide stearate, stearamide, tallow monoethanolamide, kokoana-hloko ea koro diethanolamide, PEG (polyethylene glycol) -3 lauramide, PEG-4 oleamide, PEG-50 tallow amide, joalo-joalo;

2.1.4 Li-Ether

Cetyl polyoxyethylene (3) ether, isocetyl polyoxypropylene (10) ether, lauryl polyoxyethylene (3) ether, lauryl polyoxyethylene (10) ether, Poloxamer-n (ethoxylated Polyoxypropylene ether) (n=105, 38, 28, 72 , 407), joalo-joalo;

2.1.5 Li-Esters

PEG-80 Glyceryl Tallow Ester, PEC-8PPG (Polypropylene Glycol) -3 Diisostearate, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmitate, PEG-n (n=6, 8, 12) Beeswax, PEG -4 isostearate, PEG-n (n= 3, 4, 8, 150) distearate, PEG-18 glyceryl oleate/cocoate, PEG-8 dioleate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-n (n=28, 200) Glyceryl Shea Butter, PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-40 Jojoba Oil, PEG-2 Laurate, PEG-120 Methyl glucose dioleate, PEG-150 pentaerythritol stearate, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-160 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-n (n=8, 75, 75) Stearate , PEG-150/Decyl/SMDI Copolymer (Polyethylene Glycol-150/Decyl/Methacrylate Copolymer), PEG-150/Stearyl/SMDI Copolymer, PEG- 90. Isostearate, PEG-8PPG-3 Dilaurate, Cetyl8 Palma -36 Ethylene Glycol Acid, Pentaerythritol Stearate, Pentaerythritol Behenate, propylene glycol stearate, behenyl ester, cetyl ester, glyceryl tribehenate, glyceryl trihydroxystearate, joalo-joalo;

2.1.6 Amine oxides

Myristyl amine oxide, isostearyl aminopropyl amine oxide, oli ea kokonate aminopropyl amine oxide, kokoana-hloko ea koro aminopropyl amine oxide, soybean aminopropyl amine oxide, PEG-3 lauryl amine oxide, joalo-joalo;

2.2 Li-amphoteric surfactants

Cetyl Betaine, Coco Aminosulfobetaine, joalo-joalo;

2.3 Li-surfactants tsa anionic

potasiamo oleate, potassium stearate, joalo-joalo;

2.4 Lipolima tse qhibilihang ka metsing

2.4.1 Cellulose

Cellulose, boka ba selulose,carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, formazan Base cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, joalo-joalo;

2.4.2 Polyoxyethylene

PEG-n (n=5M, 9M, 23M, 45M, 90M, 160M), joalo-joalo;

2.4.3 Polyacrylic acid

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates/Cetyl Ethoxy(20) Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/Cetyl Ethoxy(20) Methyl Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/Tetradecyl Ethoxy(25) Acrylate Copolymer/Oxycomer, Acrylates Copolymer/Oxy Acrylates/Octadecane Ethoxy(20) Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylate/Ocaryl Ethoxy(50) Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylate/VA Crosspolymer, PAA (Polyacrylic Acid), Sodium Acrylate/ Vinyl isodecanoate crosslinked polymer, Carbomer (poly salt acrylic jj) .;

2.4.4 Rabara ea tlhaho le lihlahisoa tsa eona tse fetotsoeng

Alginic acid le letsoai la eona (ammonium, calcium, potassium), pectin, sodium hyaluronate, guar gum, cationic guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, tragacanth gum, carrageenan le letsoai la eona (calcium, sodium ), xanthan gum, sclerotin gum, joalo-joalo. ;

2.4.5 Li-polymer tsa Inorganic le lihlahisoa tsa tsona tse fetotsoeng

Magnesium aluminium silicate, silica, sodium magnesium silicate, hydrated silica, montmorillonite, sodium lithium magnesium silicate, hectorite, stearyl ammonium montmorillonite, stearyl ammonium hectorite, quaternary ammonium letsoai -90 montmorillonite, quaternary ammonium 18 ammonium, joalo-joalo .;

2.4.6 Tse ling

PVM / MA decadiene crosslinked polymer (polymer crosslinked ea polyvinyl methyl ether / methyl acrylate le decadiene), PVP (polyvinylpyrrolidone), joalo-joalo;

2.5 Li-surfactants

2.5.1 Alkanolamides

E sebelisoang haholo ke kokonate diethanolamide.Li-alkanolamide li tsamaisana le li-electrolyte bakeng sa ho tenya 'me li fana ka litholoana tse ntle.Mochine o teteaneng oa alkanolamides ke ho sebelisana le li-micelles tsa anionic surfactant ho etsa maro a seng a Newtonian.Li-alkanolamide tse fapaneng li na le phapang e kholo ts'ebetsong, 'me litlamorao tsa tsona li fapane ha li sebelisoa li le mong kapa li kopane.Lingoliloeng tse ling li tlaleha mats'oafo a ho tenya le a phophomang a li-alkanolamide tse fapaneng.Haufinyane tjena, ho tlalehiloe hore li-alkanolamide li na le kotsi e ka 'nang ea e-ba teng ea ho hlahisa li-nitrosamine tsa kankere ha li etsoa litlolo.Har'a litšila tsa alkanolamide ke li-amine tse sa lefelloeng, tseo e ka bang mehloli ea nitrosamines.Hajoale ha ho na maikutlo a semmuso ho tsoa indastering ea tlhokomelo ea motho mabapi le hore na ho thibela li-alkanolamide ho litlolo.

2.5.2 Li-Ether

Ha ho etsoa ka mafura a joala a polyoxyethylene ether sodium sulfate (AES) e le ntho e ka sehloohong e sebetsang, hangata ke matsoai a inorganic feela a ka sebelisoang ho lokisa viscosity e nepahetseng.Liphuputso li bontšitse hore sena se bakoa ke boteng ba li-ethoxylates tsa joala tse mafura tse sa hloekisoang ho AES, tse tlatsetsang haholo ho tiea ha tharollo ea surfactant.Lipatlisiso tse tebileng li fumane hore: tekanyo e tloaelehileng ea ethoxylation e ka bang 3EO kapa 10EO ho bapala karolo e ntle ka ho fetisisa.Ntle le moo, phello e matla ea li-ethoxylates tsa joala tse mafura li amana haholo le bophara ba kabo ea lino tse tahang le li-homologue tse fumanehang lihlahisoa tsa bona.Ha kabo ea li-homolog e pharalletse, phello e matla ea sehlahisoa e fokola, 'me ha ho ajoa ha li-homologue ho fokotseha, ho ka ba le phello e matla haholoanyane.

2.5.3 Li-Ester

Li-thickeners tse sebelisoang haholo ke li-esters.Haufinyane tjena, PEG-8PPG-3 diisostearate, PEG-90 diisostearate le PEG-8PPG-3 dilaurate li tlalehiloe kantle ho naha.Mofuta ona oa thickener ke oa non-ionic thickener, haholo-holo o sebelisoang tsamaisong ea tharollo ea metsi a surfactant.Li-thickeners tsena ha li na hydrolyzed habonolo 'me li na le viscosity e tsitsitseng holim'a mefuta e mengata ea pH le mocheso.Hajoale e sebelisoang haholo ke PEG-150 distearate.Li-ester tse sebelisoang e le li-thickeners ka kakaretso li na le boima bo boholo ba limolek'hule, ka hona li na le lisebelisoa tse ling tsa metsoako ea polymer.Mokhoa o teteaneng o bakoa ke ho thehoa ha marang-rang a mararo a hydration sebakeng sa metsi, kahoo a kenyelletsa li-micelles tsa surfactant.Metsoako e joalo e sebetsa e le li-emollients le li-moisturizers ntle le tšebeliso ea tsona e le li-thickeners litlolo.

2.5.4 Amine oxides

Amine oxide ke mofuta oa polar non-ionic surfactant, e khetholloang ka: ka tharollo e nang le metsi, ka lebaka la phapang ea bohlokoa ba pH ea tharollo, e bonts'a thepa e seng ea ionic, hape e ka bontša thepa e matla ea ionic.Tlas'a maemo a sa nke lehlakore kapa a alkaline, ke hore, ha pH e le kholo ho feta kapa e lekana le 7, amine oxide e teng e le hydrate e se nang ionized ka tharollo e nang le metsi, e bontšang ho se be ionicity.Ka tharollo ea acidic, e bonts'a cationicity e fokolang.Ha pH ea tharollo e le ka tlase ho 3, cationicity ea amine oxide e totobetse ka ho khetheha, kahoo e ka sebetsa hantle le cationic, anionic, nonionic le zwitterionic surfactants tlas'a maemo a fapaneng.Ho lumellana hantle le ho bonts'a phello ea synergistic.Amine oxide ke setenya se sebetsang hantle.Ha pH e le 6.4-7.5, alkyl dimethyl amine oxide e ka etsa hore viscosity ea motsoako e fihle ho 13.5Pa.s-18Pa.s, ha alkyl amidopropyl dimethyl oxide Amines e ka etsa hore viscosity ea motsoako e fihle ho 34Pa.s-49Pa.s, 'me ho eketsa letsoai ho ea ho qetela ho ke ke ha fokotsa viscosity.

2.5.5 Tse ling

Li-betain tse 'maloa le sesepa le tsona li ka sebelisoa e le li-thickeners.Mokhoa oa bona oa ho teteana o tšoana le oa limolek'hule tse ling tse nyenyane, 'me kaofela li finyella phello e teteaneng ka ho sebelisana le li-micelles tse sebetsang ka holim'a metsi.Lisepa li ka sebelisoa bakeng sa ho tenya litlolong tsa lithupa, 'me betaine e sebelisoa haholo lits'ebetsong tsa metsi a surfactant.

2.6 Setsi sa polymer se qhibilihang ka metsing

Litsamaiso tse teteaneng ke li-polymeric thickeners tse ngata ha li amehe ke pH ea tharollo kapa mahloriso a electrolyte.Ntle le moo, li-thickeners tsa polymer li hloka chelete e nyane ho fihlela viscosity e hlokahalang.Ka mohlala, sehlahisoa se hloka "surfactant thickener" e kang coconut oil diethanolamide e nang le karoloana e boima ea 3.0%.Ho fihlela phello e tšoanang, feela fiber 0.5% ea polymer e hlakileng e lekane.Metsoako e mengata ea polymer e qhibilihang ka metsing ha e sebelisoe feela e le li-thickeners indastering ea litlolo, empa hape e sebelisoa e le li-agent tse emisang, li-disperants le li-styling agents.

2.6.1 Cellulose

Cellulose ke motenya o sebetsang hantle haholo lits'ebetsong tse thehiloeng metsing mme e sebelisoa haholo mafapheng a fapaneng a litlolo.Cellulose ke ntho ea tlhaho ea tlhaho, e nang le li-unit tsa glucoside tse pheta-phetoang, 'me yuniti e' ngoe le e 'ngoe ea glucoside e na le lihlopha tse 3 tsa hydroxyl, tseo ka tsona ho ka etsoang lihlahisoa tse fapaneng.Li-cellulosic thickeners li teteana ka liketane tse telele tsa ho ruruha ha hydration, 'me tsamaiso ea cellulose-thickened e bonahatsa pseudoplastic rheological morphology.Karolo e akaretsang ea tšebeliso e ka bang 1%.

2.6.2 Polyacrylic acid

Ho na le mekhoa e 'meli e teteaneng ea polyacrylic acid thickeners, e leng neutralization thickening le hydrogen bond thickening.Neutralization le thickening ke ho fokotsa acidic polyacrylic thickener ho ionize limolek'hule tsa eona le ho hlahisa litefello tse mpe ho latela ketane e kholo ea polymer.Ho nyenyefatsa pakeng tsa liqoso tsa batho ba bong bo tšoanang ho khothalletsa hore limolek'hule li otlolohe 'me li bulehe ho theha marang-rang.Sebopeho se finyella phello e teteaneng;hydrogen bonding thickening ke hore polyacrylic acid thickener e qala ho kopanngoa le metsi ho etsa molek'hule ea hydration, ebe e kopantsoe le mofani oa hydroxyl ka karoloana e boima ea 10% -20% (e kang ho ba le lihlopha tse 5 kapa ho feta tsa ethoxy) Non-ionic surfactants) e kopantsoeng ho theola limolek'hule tsa curly tsamaisong ea metsi ho theha sebopeho sa marang-rang ho fihlela phello e teteaneng.Mefuta e fapaneng ea pH, li-neutralizer tse fapaneng le boteng ba letsoai le qhibilihang li na le tšusumetso e kholo ho viscosity ea sistimi e teteaneng.Ha boleng ba pH bo le ka tlase ho 5, viscosity e eketseha ka keketseho ea pH ea boleng;ha pH e le 5-10, viscosity e batla e sa fetohe;empa ha boleng ba pH bo ntse bo eketseha, katleho e kholo e tla fokotseha hape.Li-ion tsa Monovalent li fokotsa ts'ebetso e matla ea sistimi, ha li-ion tsa divalent kapa tse trivalent li ke ke tsa fokotsa sistimi feela, empa hape li hlahisa li-insoluble precipitates ha litaba li lekane.

2.6.3 Rabara ea tlhaho le lihlahisoa tsa eona tse fetotsoeng

Marenene a tlhaho haholo-holo a kenyelletsa collagen le polysaccharides, empa boka ba tlhaho bo sebelisoang e le botenya ke li-polysaccharides.Mochine o teteaneng ke ho theha sebopeho sa marang-rang a mararo-dimensional hydration ka ho sebelisana ha lihlopha tse tharo tsa hydroxyl karolong ea polysaccharide e nang le limolek'hule tsa metsi, e le ho finyella phello e teteaneng.Mefuta ea rheological ea litharollo tsa tsona tse nang le metsi hangata ke maro ao e seng a Newtonian, empa litšobotsi tsa rheological tsa litharollo tse ling tse hlapollang li haufi le maro a Newtonian.Phello ea bona e teteaneng hangata e amana le boleng ba pH, mocheso, mahloriso le lisebelisoa tse ling tsa sistimi.Sena ke setenya se sebetsang haholo, 'me tekanyo e akaretsang ke 0.1% -1.0%.

2.6.4 Li-polymer tsa Inorganic le lihlahisoa tsa tsona tse fetotsoeng

Li-inorganic polymer thickeners hangata li na le sebopeho se mekato e meraro kapa sebopeho se atolositsoeng sa lattice.Mefuta e 'meli e sebetsang haholo khoebong ke montmorillonite le hectorite.Mokhoa o teteaneng ke hore ha polymer ea inorganic e qhalakanngoa ka metsing, li-ion tsa tšepe tse ho eona li fapana ho tloha sephaphatha, ha hydration e ntse e tsoela pele, e ruruha, 'me qetellong likristale tsa lamellar li arohane ka ho feletseng, e leng se etsang hore ho thehoe sebopeho sa anionic lamellar. likristale.le li-ion tsa tšepe ka mokhoa o hlakileng oa colloidal suspension.Tabeng ena, lamellae e na le tefiso e mpe ea holim'a metsi le chelete e nyenyane ea tefiso e ntle likhutlong tsa bona ka lebaka la ho robeha ha lattice.Ka tharollo e hlapollang, liqoso tse mpe tse holim'a metsi li kholo ho feta litefello tse ntle likhutlong, 'me likaroloana li lelekana, kahoo ho ke ke ha e-ba le phello e teteaneng.Ka tlatsetso le mahloriso a electrolyte, bongata ba li-ion tharollong boa eketseha mme tefiso ea bokaholimo ba lamellae ea fokotseha.Ka nako ena, tšebelisano e ka sehloohong e fetoha ho tloha ho matla a nyonyehang pakeng tsa lamellae ho ea ho matla a khahlehang pakeng tsa liqoso tse mpe holim'a lamellae le liqoso tse ntle likhutlong tse ka thōko, 'me li-lamellae tse tšoanang li kopantsoe ka tsela e fapaneng le e mong le e mong. ho etsa seo ho thoeng ke "carton-like Sebopeho sa "interspace" se baka ho ruruha le gelation ho finyella phello ea ho teteana.Keketseho e eketsehileng ea mahloriso a ion e tla senya sebopeho


Nako ea poso: Dec-28-2022
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