Focus on Cellulose ethers

Ziziphi iindidi ze-cosmetic thickeners

I-Thickeners sisakhiwo samathambo kunye nesiseko esisisiseko seendlela ezahlukeneyo zokuthambisa, kwaye zibalulekile kwinkangeleko, iipropathi zerheological, uzinzo, kunye nemvakalelo yolusu yeemveliso.Khetha ezisetyenziswa ngokuqhelekileyo kwaye zimele iintlobo ezahlukeneyo ze-thickeners, zilungiselele izisombululo ezinamanzi ezinogxininiso olwahlukeneyo, uvavanye iimpawu zabo zomzimba kunye neekhemikhali ezifana ne-viscosity kunye ne-pH, kwaye usebenzise uhlalutyo oluchazayo lobungakanani ukujonga inkangeleko yazo, ukungafihli, kunye neemvakalelo zolusu ezininzi ngexesha nasemva. sebenzisa.Iimvavanyo ze-Sensory zenziwa kwiimpawu, kwaye uncwadi lwakhangelwa ukushwankathela kunye nokushwankathela iintlobo ezahlukeneyo ze-thickeners, ezinokubonelela ngereferensi ethile yoyilo lwefomula yezithambiso.

1. Inkcazo ye-thickener

Zininzi izinto ezinokusetyenziswa njengezityebi.Ngokombono wobunzima bemolekyuli, kukho i-low-molecular thickeners kunye ne-high-molecular thickeners;ukusuka kumbono wamaqela asebenzayo, kukho i-electrolytes, i-alcohol, i-amides, i-carboxylic acids kunye ne-esters, njl. Linda.Ii-thickeners zihlelwa ngokwendlela yokuhlelwa kwezinto eziluhlaza zokuthambisa.

1. Isityebi esisezantsi semolekyuli

1.1.1 Iityuwa ezingaphiliyo

Inkqubo esebenzisa ityuwa ye-inorganic njenge-thickener ngokuqhelekileyo yinkqubo yesisombululo se-aqueous ephuma emanzini.Eyona nto isetyenziswa ngokuqhelekileyo ityuwa yetyuwa ye-inorganic is sodium chloride, enesiphumo esicacileyo sokuqina.I-surfactants yenza i-micelles kwisisombululo se-aqueous, kwaye ubukho be-electrolytes kwandisa inani lemibutho yee-micelles, ekhokelela ekuguqulweni kwee-micelles ezingqukuva zibe yimicelles emise okwentonga, ukwandisa ukuxhathisa ukuhamba, kwaye ngaloo ndlela ukwandisa i-viscosity yenkqubo.Nangona kunjalo, xa i-electrolyte igqithise, iya kuchaphazela isakhiwo se-micellar, ukunciphisa ukuxhatshazwa kwentshukumo, kunye nokunciphisa i-viscosity yenkqubo, ebizwa ngokuba yi-"salting out".Ngoko ke, ubungakanani be-electrolyte eyongeziweyo ngokuqhelekileyo yi-1% -2% ngobunzima, kwaye isebenza kunye nezinye iintlobo ze-thickeners ukwenza inkqubo izinze ngakumbi.

1.1.2 Utywala obunamafutha, iiasidi ezinamafutha

Utywala obunamafutha kunye ne-fatty acids zizinto eziphilayo ze-polar.Amanye amanqaku abajonga njenge-nonionic surfactants kuba banamaqela amabini e-lipophilic kunye namaqela e-hydrophilic.Ubukho bexabiso elincinci lezinto eziphilayo ezinje zinempembelelo enkulu kuxinzelelo lomphezulu, i-omc kunye nezinye iipropathi ze-surfactant, kwaye ubungakanani besiphumo buyanda kunye nobude bekhonkco lekhabhoni, ngokubanzi kubudlelwane bomgca.Umgaqo wayo wesenzo kukuba i-alcohols ezinamafutha kunye ne-fatty acids zinokufaka (zidibanise) ii-micelles ze-surfactant ukukhuthaza ukubunjwa kwee-micelles.Umphumo we-hydrogen bonding phakathi kweentloko ze-polar) yenza iimolekyuli ezimbini zilungelelaniswe ngokusondeleyo kumphezulu, ezitshintsha kakhulu iipropathi ze-surfactant micelles kwaye zifezekise umphumo wokuqina.

2. Ukuhlelwa kwee-thickeners

2.1 Ii-non-ionic surfactants

2.1.1 Iityuwa ezingaphiliyo

I-sodium chloride, i-potassium chloride, i-ammonium chloride, i-monoethanolamine chloride, i-diethanolamine chloride, i-sodium sulfate, i-trisodium phosphate, i-disodium hydrogen phosphate kunye ne-sodium tripolyphosphate, njl.;

2.1.2 Utywala obunamafutha kunye neeasidi ezinamafutha

ILauryl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, C12-15 Alcohol, C12-16 Alcohol, Decyl Alcohol, Hexyl Alcohol, Octyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Lauric Acid, C18-Lilistic Acid, C18-Lilistic acid, C18-Lilistic acid, C18-3 , stearic acid, behenic acid, njl.;

2.1.3 IiAlkanolamides

I-Coco Diethanolamide, i-Coco Monoethanolamide, i-Coco Monoisopropanolamide, i-Cocamide, i-Lauroyl-Linoleoyl Diethanolamide, i-Lauroyl-Myristoyl Diethanolamide, i-Isostearyl Diethanolamide, i-Linoleic Diethanolamide, i-Cardamom Diethanolamide, i-Cardamom Diethanolamide, i-Cardamom Diethanolamide, i-Monoethanomidi ye-Monoe-Monoe thanolamide, iSesame Diethanolamide, iimbotyi zeSoya iDiethanolamide, iStearyl Diethanolamide, Stearin Monoethanolamide, stearyl monoethanolamide stearate, stearamide, tallow monoethanolamide, intsholongwane yengqolowa diethanolamide, PEG (polyethylene glycol) -3 lauramide, PEG-4 oleamide, PEG-50 tallow amide, njl.;

2.1.4 Ietha

I-Cetyl polyoxyethylene (3) ether, isocetyl polyoxypropylene (10) ether, lauryl polyoxyethylene (3) ether, lauryl polyoxyethylene (10) ether, iPoloxamer-n (ethoxylated Polyoxypropylene ether) (n=105, 313, 724,724 , 407), njl.;

2.1.5 Esters

PEG-80 Glyceryl Tallow Ester, PEC-8PPG (Polypropylene Glycol)-3 Diisostearate, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmitate, PEG-n (n=6, 8, 12) Beeswax, PEG -4 isostearate, PEG-n (n= 3, 4, 8, 150) distearate, PEG-18 glyceryl oleate / cocoate, PEG-8 dioleate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-n (n = 28, 200) Glyceryl Shea Butter, PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, I-PEG-40 i-Oli ye-Jojoba, i-PEG-2 Laurate, i-PEG-120 i-Methyl glucose dioleate, i-PEG-150 pentaerythritol stearate, i-PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, i-PEG-160 sorbitan triisostearate, i-PEG-n (n = 8, 75, 75) Stearate , PEG-150/Decyl/SMDI Copolymer (Polyethylene Glycol-150/Decyl/Methacrylate Copolymer), PEG-150/Stearyl/SMDI Copolymer, PEG- 90. Isostearate, PEG-8PPG-3 Dilaurate, Cetyl8 Palma, Cetyl8 -36 Ethylene Glycol Acid, Pentaerythritol Stearate, Pentaerythritol Behenate, propylene glycol stearate, behenyl ester, cetyl ester, glyceryl tribehenate, glyceryl trihydroxystearate, njl.;

2.1.6 Iioksidi zeamine

I-Myristyl amine oxide, isostearyl aminopropyl amine oxide, i-coconut oil aminopropyl amine oxide, intsholongwane yengqolowa i-aminopropyl amine oxide, i-soybean aminopropyl amine oxide, i-PEG-3 lauryl amine oxide, njl.;

2.2 Ii-amphoteric surfactants

Cetyl Betaine, Coco Aminosulfobetaine, njl.;

2.3 Ii-Anionic surfactants

I-potasium oleate, i-potassium stearate, njl.;

2.4 Iipolima ezinyibilikayo emanzini

2.4.1 ISelulosi

I-cellulose, itshungama ye-cellulose,carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, i-cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, i-ethyl cellulose, i-hydroxyethyl cellulose, i-hydroxypropyl cellulose, i-hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, i-formazan Base cellulose, i-carboxymethyl cellulose, njl.;

2.4.2 Polyoxyethylene

I-PEG-n (n=5M, 9M, 23M, 45M, 90M, 160M), njl.;

2.4.3 Iasidi yePolyacrylic

I-Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates/Cetyl Ethoxy(20) Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/Cetyl Ethoxy(20) Methyl Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/Tetradecyl Ethoxy(25) Acrylate Copolymer/Oxycomer, Acrylate Copolymer/Oxy Acrylates/Octadecane Ethoxy(20) Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylate/Ocaryl Ethoxy(50) Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylate/VA Crosspolymer, PAA (Polyacrylic Acid), Sodium Acrylate/Vinyl isodecanoate crosslinked polymer, Carbomer (poly ityuwa ye-sodium njl njl) .;

2.4.4 Irabha yendalo kunye neemveliso zayo ezilungisiweyo

I-Alginic acid kunye neetyuwa zayo (i-ammonium, i-calcium, i-potassium), i-pectin, i-sodium hyaluronate, i-guar gum, i-cationic guar gum, i-hydroxypropyl guar gum, i-tragacanth gum, i-carrageenan kunye nayo (i-calcium, i-sodium) ityuwa, i-xanthan gum, i-sclerotin gum, njl. ;

2.4.5 Iipholima ezingaphiliyo kunye neemveliso zazo ezilungisiweyo

I-Magnesium aluminium silicate, i-silica, i-sodium magnesium silicate, i-hydrated silica, i-montmorillonite, i-sodium lithium magnesium silicate, i-hectorite, i-stearyl ammonium montmorillonite, i-stearyl ammonium hectorite, i-quaternary ammonium ityuwa -90 montmorillonite, i-quaternary ammonium, i-quaternary ammonium, njl. .;

2.4.6 Ezinye

I-PVM / MA i-decadiene i-polymer edibeneyo (i-polymer edibeneyo ye-polyvinyl methyl ether / i-methyl acrylate kunye ne-decadiene), i-PVP (i-polyvinylpyrrolidone), njl.;

2.5 Ii-surfactants

2.5.1 IiAlkanolamides

Eyona isetyenziswa ngokuqhelekileyo i-coconut diethanolamide.I-Alkanolamides iyahambelana ne-electrolyte yokujiya kwaye inika iziphumo ezilungileyo.Indlela yokujiya yealkanolamides lunxibelelwano kunye ne-anionic surfactant micelles ukwenza ulwelo olungelulo olwaseNewtonian.Ii-alkanolamides ezahlukeneyo zinokumahluko omkhulu ekusebenzeni, kwaye iziphumo zazo zikwahluka xa zisetyenziswa zodwa okanye zidibene.Amanye amanqaku anika ingxelo ngeempawu zokujiya kunye nezinegwebu zealkanolamides ezahlukeneyo.Kutshanje, kuye kwaxelwa ukuba i-alkanolamides inobungozi obunokubakho bokuvelisa i-carcinogenic nitrosamines xa yenziwe kwizinto zokuthambisa.Phakathi kokungcola kwe-alkanolamides kukho ii-amines zamahhala, ezinokuthi zibe yimithombo ye-nitrosamines.Okwangoku akukho luvo lusemthethweni oluvela kwishishini lokhathalelo lomntu malunga nokuba ukuvalwa kwealkanolamides kwizinto zokuthambisa.

2.5.2 Ietha

Ekuqulunqweni kunye ne-alcohol enamafutha e-polyoxyethylene ether sodium sulfate (AES) njengeyona nto isebenzayo, ngokubanzi kuphela iityuwa ze-inorganic kuphela ezinokusetyenziswa ukulungisa i-viscosity efanelekileyo.Uphononongo lubonise ukuba oku kungenxa yobukho be-ethoxylates yotywala obunamafutha angaxutywanga kwi-AES, enegalelo elikhulu ekujikeni kwesisombululo se-surfactant.Uphando olunzulu lufumene ukuba: iqondo eliphakathi le-ethoxylation li malunga ne-3EO okanye i-10EO yokudlala indima engcono kakhulu.Ukongeza, isiphumo esityebileyo se-fatty alcohol ethoxylates sinento yokwenza nobubanzi bokusasazwa kotywala obungaphendulwanga kunye nee-homologues eziqulethwe kwiimveliso zabo.Xa ukuhanjiswa kwama-homolog kubanzi, umphumo wokuqina wemveliso uhlwempuzekile, kwaye ukusabalalisa ukusabalalisa kwee-homologues, umphumo omkhulu unokufumaneka.

2.5.3 Esters

Ezona zityebi zisetyenziswa kakhulu zii-esters.Kutshanje, i-PEG-8PPG-3 diisostearate, i-PEG-90 diisostearate kunye ne-PEG-8PPG-3 dilaurate ziye zabikwa phesheya.Olu hlobo lwe-thickener yeye-non-ionic thickener, esetyenziswa ikakhulu kwinkqubo yesisombululo se-aqueous e-surfactant.Ezi zingqimba azikho lula i-hydrolyzed kwaye zine-viscosity ezinzileyo kuluhlu olubanzi lwe-pH kunye nobushushu.Okwangoku eyona nto isetyenziswa kakhulu yi-PEG-150 distearate.Ii-esters ezisetyenziswa njengezinto ezityebileyo zinobunzima obukhulu bemolekyuli, ngoko ke zineempawu ezithile zeekhompawundi zepolymer.Indlela yokuqina ibangelwa kukwenziwa kwenethiwekhi ye-hydration ene-dimensional-dimensional kwisigaba samanzi, ngaloo ndlela idibanisa ii-micelles ze-surfactant.Iikhompawundi ezinjalo zisebenza njenge-emollients kunye ne-moisturizers ngaphezu kokusetyenziswa kwazo njengezinto ezityebileyo kwizinto zokuthambisa.

2.5.4 Iioksidi zeamine

I-amine oxide luhlobo lwe-polar non-ionic surfactant, olubonakaliswa ngu: kwisisombululo esinamanzi, ngenxa yokwahlukana kwexabiso le-pH yesisombululo, sibonisa iimpawu ezingezona ionic, kwaye zingabonisa iimpawu ezinamandla ze-ionic.Ngaphantsi kweemeko ezingathathi hlangothi okanye ze-alkaline, oko kukuthi, xa i-pH inkulu okanye ilingana ne-7, i-amine oxide ikhona njenge-hydrate engekho ionized kwisisombululo samanzi, ebonisa i-non-ionicity.Kwisisombululo esine-acidic, sibonisa i-cationicity ebuthathaka.Xa i-pH yesisombululo ingaphantsi kwe-3, i-cationicity ye-amine oxide ibonakala ngokucacileyo, ngoko inokusebenza kakuhle kunye ne-cationic, i-anionic, i-nonionic kunye ne-zwitterionic surfactants phantsi kweemeko ezahlukeneyo.Ukuhambelana okuhle kunye nokubonisa umphumo we-synergistic.Iamine oxide sisityebi esisebenzayo.Xa i-pH i-6.4-7.5, i-alkyl dimethyl amine oxide ingenza i-viscosity ye-compound ifikelele kwi-13.5Pa.s-18Pa.s, ngelixa i-alkyl amidopropyl dimethyl oxide i-Amines inokwenza i-viscosity ye-compound ifikelele kwi-34Pa.s-49Pa.s, kwaye ukongeza ityuwa ekugqibeleni akuyi kunciphisa i-viscosity.

2.5.5 Ezinye

Iibetain ezimbalwa kunye neesepha nazo zingasetyenziswa njengezityebi.Indlela yabo yokuqina iyafana neyezinye iiamolekyuli ezincinci, kwaye zonke zifikelela kwisiphumo sokuqina ngokunxibelelana neemicelles ezisebenza ngaphezulu.Iisepha zingasetyenziselwa ukujiya kwizinto zokuthambisa zentonga, kwaye i-betaine isetyenziswa kakhulu kwiinkqubo zamanzi aphuma kwi-surfactant.

2.6 Isityebi sepolymer enyibilikayo emanzini

Iinkqubo ezixutywe ngamatye amaninzi e-polymeric azichatshazelwa yi-pH yesisombululo okanye ukuxinwa kwe-electrolyte.Ukongeza, i-polymer thickeners idinga inani elincinci ukufezekisa i-viscosity efunekayo.Umzekelo, imveliso ifuna i-surfactant thickener efana ne-coconut oil diethanolamide eneqhezu lobunzima be-3.0%.Ukufezekisa umphumo ofanayo, kuphela i-fiber 0.5% ye-polymer ecacileyo yanele.Uninzi lweekhompawundi zepolymer ezinyibilikayo emanzini azisetyenziswanga nje kuphela njengezityebi kushishino lwezithambiso, kodwa zikwasetyenziswa njengeearhente zokumisa, izisasazi kunye neearhente zesimbo.

2.6.1 ISelulosi

I-Cellulose i-thickener esebenzayo kakhulu kwiinkqubo ezisekelwe emanzini kwaye isetyenziswa ngokubanzi kwiinkalo ezahlukeneyo zokuthambisa.I-Cellulose yinto engokwemvelo yendalo, equkethe iiyunithi ze-glucoside eziphindaphindiweyo, kwaye iyunithi nganye ye-glucoside iqulethe i-3 amaqela e-hydroxyl, apho i-derivatives ehlukeneyo inokwakheka.I-Cellulose thickeners iyajiya ngokusebenzisa i-hydration-dumba amatyathanga amade, kwaye inkqubo ye-cellulose-thickened ibonisa i-pseudoplastic rheological morphology.Iqhezu eliqhelekileyo lokusetyenziswa limalunga ne-1%.

2.6.2 Iasidi yePolyacrylic

Kukho iindlela ezimbini zokujiya zepolyacrylic acid thickeners, ezizezi neutralization thickening kunye nehydrogen bond thickening.I-neutralization kunye nokujiya kukunciphisa i-acidic polyacrylic acid thickener ukuze i-ionize iimolekyuli zayo kwaye ivelise iintlawulo ezingalunganga ecaleni kwekhonkco eliphambili lepolymer.Ukunyanyiswa phakathi kweentlawulo zesini esifanayo kukhuthaza iimolekyuli ukuba ziqonde kwaye zivule ukwenza inethiwekhi.Isakhiwo sifezekisa umphumo wokuqina;i-hydrogen bonding thickening kukuba i-polyacrylic acid thickener idityaniswa kuqala namanzi ukuze yenze i-molecule ye-hydration, ize idityaniswe ne-hydroxyl donor kunye neqhezu elinzima le-10% -20% (efana nokuba namaqela ama-5 okanye ngaphezulu ethoxy) Non-ionic i-surfactants) idityaniswe ukuze ikhuphe iimolekyuli ezigobileyo kwinkqubo yamanzi ukuze zenze isakhiwo sothungelwano ukufezekisa umphumo wokuqina.Amaxabiso ahlukeneyo e-pH, i-neutralizers eyahlukeneyo kunye nobukho beetyuwa ezinyibilikayo zinempembelelo enkulu kwi-viscosity yenkqubo yokuqina.Xa ixabiso le-pH lingaphantsi kwe-5, i-viscosity iyanda ngokunyuka kwexabiso le-pH;xa ixabiso le-pH li-5-10, i-viscosity iphantse ingatshintshi;kodwa njengoko ixabiso le-pH liqhubeka likhula, ukusebenza kakuhle kuya kuncipha kwakhona.Ii-ion ze-Monovalent zinciphisa kuphela ukusebenza kakuhle kwenkqubo, ngelixa i-divalent okanye i-ion ze-trivalent ayinakubhitya kuphela inkqubo, kodwa ivelise i-insoluble precipitates xa umxholo wanele.

2.6.3 Irabha yendalo kunye neemveliso zayo ezilungisiweyo

Itshungama yendalo ikakhulu ibandakanya i-collagen kunye ne-polysaccharides, kodwa intlaka yendalo esetyenziswa njenge-thickener ikakhulu ziipolysaccharides.Indlela yokutyebisa kukwenza ulwakhiwo lwenethiwekhi ye-hydration ye-three-dimensional ngokusebenzisa intsebenziswano yamaqela amathathu e-hydroxyl kwiyunithi ye-polysaccharide kunye ne-molecule zamanzi, ukuze kufezekiswe umphumo wokuqina.Iifom rheological izisombululo zabo aqueous ikakhulu non-Newtonian ulwelo, kodwa iimpawu rheological ezinye izisombululo dilute kufutshane nolwelo Newtonian.Isiphumo sabo sokuqina ngokuqhelekileyo sinxulumene nexabiso le-pH, ubushushu, ugxininiso kunye nezinye izisombululo zenkqubo.Le yi-thickener esebenzayo kakhulu, kwaye umthamo jikelele ngu-0.1% -1.0%.

2.6.4 Iipholima ezingaphiliyo kunye neemveliso zazo ezilungisiweyo

I-Inorganic polymer thickeners ngokubanzi inesakhiwo esinemaleko amathathu okanye i-lattice eyandisiweyo.Iindidi ezimbini eziluncedo kakhulu kwezorhwebo yi-montmorillonite kunye ne-hectorite.Indlela yokuqina kukuba xa i-polymer ye-inorganic ihlakazekile emanzini, i-ion zetsimbi ezikuyo zisasazeka kwi-wafer, njengoko i-hydration iqhubeka, iyakhukhumala, kwaye ekugqibeleni iikristali ze-lamellar zihlukaniswe ngokupheleleyo, okukhokelela ekubunjweni kwe-anionic lamellar structure lamellar. iikristale.kunye neeoni zetsimbi kwi-transparent colloidal suspension.Kule meko, i-lamellae inexabiso elibi kunye nexabiso elincinci lentlawulo efanelekileyo kwiikona zabo ngenxa yokuphuka kwe-lattice.Kwisisombululo se-dilute, iintlawulo ezingalunganga kumphezulu zikhulu kunezityholo ezintle kwiikona, kwaye iinqununu zigxotha omnye nomnye, ngoko akuyi kuba nefuthe lokuqina.Ngokudibanisa kunye nokugxininiswa kwe-electrolyte, ukuxinwa kwe-ion kwisisombululo kwandisa kwaye intlawulo yomhlaba we-lamellae iyancipha.Ngeli xesha, intsebenziswano ephambili itshintsha ukusuka kumandla aphikisayo phakathi kwe-lamellae ukuya kumandla anomtsalane phakathi kweentlawulo ezingalunganga kumphezulu we-lamellae kunye neentlawulo ezilungileyo kwiikona zomphetho, kwaye i-lamellae ehambelanayo idityaniswe ngokuthe ngqo komnye nomnye. ukwenza into ebizwa ngokuba "i-carton-like Isakhiwo se "interspace" sibangela ukuvuvukala kunye ne-gelation ukufezekisa umphumo wokuqina.Ukunyuka okungaphezulu kwi-ion concentration kuya kutshabalalisa isakhiwo


Ixesha lokuposa: Dec-28-2022
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